AudioSeal™ Sound Barrier

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  • LOADING...

Audioseal™ Sound Barrier is a sound transmission blocker that reduces sound from transmitting through walls, floors and ceilings.

It is a limp-mass material made of high-temperature fused vinyl and no lead fillers. Audioseal™ Sound Barrier is very dense, weighing one to two pounds per square foot.

This mass is what allows the Audioseal Barrier to be so effective at reducing airborne noise from transmitting into your space or inside noise transmitting out of your space.

Audioseal™ is commonly used in new construction and also to correct noise problems in existing spaces. Audioseal™ Sound Barrier is available in a non-reinforced version for wall and ceiling installations and a reinforced version for installations that require hanging or mounting with grommets.

A Class 1 Fire Rated option is available for indoor applications where the barrier will be exposed.

Audioseal™ is tear resistant, yet easy to cut with a utility knife. Standard roll size is 54" x 30'.

ADDITIONAL STOCK LOCATIONS:
AudioSeal™ is also available for local pick up or delivery at the following locations. Call for delivery/pick-up arrangements and pricing.

Metropolitan Lumber and Hardware
Manhattan, NY (11th Avenue)
212-246-9090

Marjam Supply
Brooklyn, NY
718-388-6465

 

Model No.StyleWeightSizeCoverage

Class 1

Fire Rated

ColorPrice
AB10R-60-RL Reinforced 1lb/Sq. Ft. 54" x 60' 270 Sq. Ft. No Grey $540.00
FR10NR-30-RL Non-Reinforced 1lb/Sq. Ft. 48" x 30' 120 Sq. Ft. Yes White $625.00
AB10NR-15-RL Non-Reinforced 1lb/Sq. Ft. 54" x 15' 67.5 Sq. Ft. No Black $95.00
AB10NR-30-RL Non-Reinforced 1lb/Sq. Ft. 54" x 30' 135 Sq. Ft. No Black $170.00
AB10NR-60-RL Non-Reinforced 1lb/Sq. Ft. 54" x 60' 270 Sq. Ft. No Black $340.00
AB20NR-15'2#-RL Non-Reinforced 2lb/Sq. Ft. 54" x 15' 67.5 Sq. Ft. No Black $170.00
AB10R-30-RL Reinforced 1lb/Sq. Ft. 54" x 30' 135 Sq. Ft. No Grey $270.00

For more information on this product, contact our sales department.

Product Questions & Comments (49 items)

  • More comments from satisfied customers. The sound barrier was installed yesterday and I put my boom box in the room, cranked it up, ran upstairs and could not hear a thing!!! Awesome. The sheet rock went up last night on the ceiling and I found that my singing sounds quite nice in the room! Maybe I should turn it into a recording studio. Thanks for your help. Cindy Lewis

    Cindy Lewis -

    160 Positive

  • We have two grinding booths, we use air grinders to clean off metal bars and noise is almost in the 100 dBA. What I am trying to do is reduce the noise inside of the booths for the operator.

    Jay Conley - Cascade Corporation

    78 Positive

  • May i lay the MLV over a plywood subfloor and install nail down oak flooring over the MLV and still achieve the same reduced sound transmission? A local vendor in town who sells the product said that it was not a problem.

    scot ryan - DCP

    59 Positive

  • Scot - Yes, you can use the Mass Loaded Vinyl on the floor and still pull the expected STC value. Also, if you're looking to reduce impact noise such as footfall and still pull the same type of STC value you can also consider the IsoStep floor underlayment product

    Eric Peters - Acoustical Solutions, Inc.

    49 Positive

  • Renovating our condo; can this rolled product be used on concrete floor under pad with carpet as well as under the drywall?

    Helen - NA:single family residence-side by side condo

    46 Positive

  • Helen - Yes, you can use the mass loaded vinyl under a pad under carpet as well as behind the drywall.

    Perhaps a better choice for the floor, however, might be our IsoStep Floor Underlayment (http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/33~iso-step-floor-underlayment). This product has a slight advantage over the mass loaded vinyl because it acts both as a sound barrier (as does the mass loaded vinyl) AND reduces noise from foot fall.

    As I said though, the mass loaded vinyl will work on the floor to reduce sound transmission into or out of the room/ condo.

    Eric Peters - Acoustical Solutions, Inc.

    28 Positive

  • I am looking to install the sound barrier to the wall that is being shared with next door neighbor. Is this the right product to purchase and if not can you suggest another product? And also subsequent to installation of the barrier can I install the wallpaper over the barrier? Thanks.

    Sun -

    27 Positive

  • Sun - The AudioSeal Sound Barrier will work on your wall to block noise from neighbors, but you cannot apply wallpaper directly to it.  If you want to use the vinyl sound barrier AND wall paper, you will need to use the barrier inside the wall.

    Another option is to use QuietGlue Pro (http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/31~quietglue-pro).  This product is applied to the back of drywall, then that drywall is applied on top of the existing drywall.  QuietGlue dampens the sound very effectively.  After you apply the new drywall, you can add wall paper to it.

    Eric Peters - Acoustical Solutions, Inc.

    29 Positive

  • I was wondering if this stuff would work on the ceiling of my condo. I live in an older building and my upstairs neighbor is a ridiculously loud stomper. I can seriously hear every stupid step he takes. Any thoughts about whether this or some other product would be best?

    David -

    47 Positive

  • David,

    The only two ways to eliminate Footfall sound is to create a floating floor upstairs or a floating ceiling downstairs. In much the same way the two kids with the tin cups and a string between them can hear each other talking across the street, the mechanical connection between your neighbor's floor surface directly to the sheet rock of your ceiling is conducting the foot stomping noise.

    The only way to keep the kids from hearing each other is to cut the string. The only way to keep the sound of your neighbor's foot steps being heard by you is to "cut the string" between his floor and your ceiling.

    Floating floor could be accomplished by taking up his floor, laying down Iso-step on his subfloor, and then replacing the floor. Link for Iso-step: http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/33~iso-step-floor-underlayment

    The Floating floor option would be the most effective because it arrests the sound before it has a chance to make it into the building structure in the first place.

    A floating ceiling would be accomplished by screwing Alpha Resilient Isolation clips through your existing ceiling, into the joists, installing hat track, and screwing in a new layer of Sheet rock. I'd recommend actually two layers of sheet rock with a Damping Compound between them called Quiet Glue. Link for iso clips: http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/602~resiliant-isolation-clip and the installation guide that explains this system better, basically if you just scroll down and look at the pictures it will make perfect sense: http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/alpharesilient-isolation-clips-installation-guide/display_lightbox/prod_725 Link for the Quiet glue is here: http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/31~quietglue-pro

    Floating your ceiling would be an install for a Sheet rock Contractor in your area and lower your ceiling approximately 4".

    Matt Boughan - Acoustical Solutions, Inc.

    19 Positive

  • Could i install your product under nailed down hardwood floors?

    John Di Joseph - JS Cornell & son

    18 Positive

  • Comment Img

    John,

    Yes, AudioSeal Sound Barrier can be installed beneath the nailed down hardwood floor. However, a layer will need to be put down over the barrier so when the hardwood floor is nailed down the nails do not penetrate it.

    I will say that the best product to use for a floor underlayment is our IsoStep Floor Underlayment. This IsoStep is for airborne & impact isolation such as footfall. You will still need to put a sub floor down, but this product would likely better meet your needs. The AudioSeal Barrier is typically just for blocking airborne noise, not footfall. Please use the provided URL to view more information on IsoStep Floor Underlayment:

    http://acousticalsolutions.com/33~iso-step-floor-underlayment

    Blake Hall - Acoustical Solutions, Inc.

    17 Positive

  • Can't tell from the item description, but is it possible to apply this material to the EXterior of the drywall? ...And then maybe paint it? If this is indeed possible, is it recommended? I notice that all the emphasized applications revolve around installing it within the space between the drywall.

    Russell B -

    22 Positive

  • Russell,

    It is unrecommeded to install AudioSeal Sound Barrier in such a way that it is exposed because it is not fire rated and could cause a safety hazard. What you could do is install the barrier over your existing drywall and then add an additional layer of drywall over the barrer.

    You could also consider absorber/barrier combination blankets (http://acousticalsolutions.com/589~audioseal-absorber-barrier-combination-blankets) or barrier panels (http://acousticalsolutions.com/567~alphasorb-barrier-fabric-wrapped-wall-panels) to block noise, but they are not paintable and may not acheive the look you are going for.

    I hope this was helpful and feel free to call with any additional questions: 1-800-782-5742

    Aimee Sanford - Acoustical Solutions, Inc.

    22 Positive

  • Will QuietGlue Pro stick to a vinyl sound barrier? Would I be able to staple vinyl barrier to drywall, then attach faux wood wall paneling over that with a layer of Quiet Glue in between?

    Jason B -

    17 Positive

  • I have an existing finished wall between a gym and a attorney's office and would like to add an additional sound barrier. What is the best product to use and how should the additional sound barrier be constructed?

    Doug Locke -

    14 Positive

  • Doug,

     

    If you are trying to block sound travelling through an existing wall, the easiest thing to do would be to add damping compound such as QuietGlue Pro to the back of a new layer of drywall, then install it on top of your existing wall. You could also use AudioSeal Vinyl Barrier on an existing wall as well by attaching it to your wall then covering it with another layer of drywall. You could use both methods, but you are losing space in your room with the more layers you add.

    Aimee Sanford - Acoustical Solutions, Inc.

    15 Positive

  • Hi Jason,

    Quiet Glue is indeed sticky, but its not in fact an adhesive. Its scientific name would be: Visco-elastic damping compound. Basically what that means is in order for it to work, it has to be applied between two rigid layers of mass like sheet rock, or plywood, particle board, MDF board, things like that. Thats the only way its going to be useful in regards to stopping sound. Mass loaded vinyl is best applied in such a way that it can remain floppy inside a cavity in a wall so that it can literally move back and forth with the soundwaves hitting it. So, just a recap, we dont want to affix mass loaded vinyl with glue to things, and we dont want to use Quiet Glue as a regular adhesive. For your situation I would say you want to apply Quiet Glue to the back of a layer of plywood, *screw* that plywood to your wall or surface, then apply the faux wood panel to the outside of that new layer of plywood in whatever fashion you deem reasonable. Thanks, and my information is below if you have any other questions! Regards,

    Matt Boughan

    Profile page: http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/profile/profile.php?ID=11

    Technical Sales

    800-782-5742 Ext: 11

    mdb@acousticalsolutions.com

    Matt Boughan - Acoustical Solutions, Inc.

    21 Positive

  • I'm contemplating utilizing AudioSeal in the walls between a studio for recording classical guitar and a dedicated home theater room. Construction on the new home will begin in about 2 yrs. In your datasheet, is the attenuation at particular frequencies of interest listed in dB? Any suggestions?

    Greg -

    17 Positive

  • Hi Greg,

    Yes, the STC or Sound Transmission Class Rating is listed in the data sheet for each product in the download center on the right hand side of the page. Here is the URL for the Non Reinformed Barrier (AB10NR) data sheet:

    http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/audioseal-sound-barrier-non-reinforced-ab10nr-data-sheet

    If you look at the chart, you see that at 1000 Hertz Frequency the STC is 28, meaning it reduces noise at 1000 Hertz by 28 decibels, and so on.

    Aimee Sanford - Acoustical Solutions, Inc.

    26 Positive

  • I'm looking for a product that i can use to line the engine room of a power boat (25ft) --- needs to have flame resistance attributes -- do any of your products fit this application? Need to install approx 5 in away from running v8 internal combustion gasoline engine

    diane wasilewski -

    16 Positive

  • Hello Diane,

    A sound barrier that I would recommend for you are our absorber/barrier combination blankets. They are Class 1 Fire Rated and block up to 44 decibels. Here is the URL for this product: http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/audioseal-absorber-barrier-combination-blankets Also, here is a case study for a project one of customers had, similar to yours: http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/120~howard-srs-dream-boat

    Please feel free to call in with any further questions:1-800-782-5742

    Aimee Sanford - Acoustical Solutions, Inc.

    14 Positive

  • I am building a free standing recording booth for use in voice over work, and was wondering if mass vinyl would work as an effective sound barrier if it is applied to a 4x8 sheet of masonite, and then covered with acoustic foam panels? Would this a.) be possible, and b.) serve as an effective sound barrier? Thanks, Dan

    Dan -

    11 Positive

  • Hi Dan,

     

    Your idea could work if constructed properly. You would need to seal all seams or breaks in the vinyl barrier with acoustical caulk, because a 1% opening can transmit 50% of the noise it is supposed to be blocking. You would also need to apply the barrier to the ceiling of the vocal booth, and engineer a way to keep sound from escaping from underneath the door of the vocal booth, such as a door seal kit. Please feel free to call in with any more specific questions about your project. One of our knowledgeable sales reps would be more than happy to help you out: 1-800-782-5742

    Aimee Sanford - Acoustical Solutions, Inc.

    15 Positive

  • 2 family house; looking to install new floor upstairs & avoid footfall noise & sound. Downstairs has recessed ceiling lights & limited insulation due to necessary space around highhats. What would be the best option for floor choice and underlayment; would prefer not to use rubber, maybe cork?

    Angie -

    16 Positive

  • Hi Angie,

    If you are looking to reduce both footfall and airborne sound - and prefer not to use rubber, our Enkasonic Floor Underlayment is a great choice. Enkasonic is an acoustic floor underlayment material made up of extruded nylon filaments which form a three dimensional core that has a nonwoven fabric heat bonded to its upper surface. The durable, yet pliable, construction of Enkasonic sound control matting lowers both structural and airborne sound transmission by its ability to convert and store vibrational energy. Check out the data sheet on the product page to see the STC ratings - this measures the product's sound blocking ability. You will see that you get best results when you use the underlayment under carpeting (this is true with all underlayments as non-rigid materials transfer less sound in general). If you prefer tile or hardwood, however, don't worry - The STC rating will still be exceptional, and the Enkasonic Underlayment will still cut impact sound transmission in half. http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/enkasonic-floor-underlayment

    Aimee Sanford - Acoustical Solutions, Inc.

    34 Positive

  • Besides the house wall, I believe a neighbor's bass sound is getting into my house through two closed crawl space vents that face the neighbor. What is the best way to reduce the sound/vibration coming through the vents inside the crawl space?

    Dan Curtiss -

    29 Positive

  • Hi Dan,

    If bass frequencies are traveling up your metal ducts, vibration is what is transmitting the sound. To dampen this vibration you can use damping sheets or damping compound on the exterior of the airway, here are the URLs for these two products:

    damping compound: http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/31~vbd-10-damping-compound

    damping sheets:http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/31~soundamp-e-vibration-damping-sheet

    Aimee Sanford - Acoustical Solutions, Inc.

    15 Positive

  • Hi - is it possible to use your product to soundproof a fence that faces a busy road (and the space behind it?) (e.g. nail it to the fence?)

    Kevin -

    20 Positive

  • Hi Kevin,

    You technically could install audioseal this way, but it's designed to be installed within a wall so doing otherwise would mean less than optimum soundproofing results. For your application I would recommend our AcoustiWood Fence System. Check it out here: http://acousticalsolutions.com/75~acoustiwood

    Aimee Sanford - Acoustical Solutions, Inc.

    16 Positive

  • Something for you I haven't seen in the comments/questions yet; I have a full size enclosed server rack in my home office and the noise can be horrendous. Would this product be good for lining the insides of the rack enclosure in an effort to reduce the noise? Have you had an other customers attempt a similar setup?

    Scott Harris -

    18 Positive

  • Hi Scott,

    This product is meant to go inside a wall, we wouldn't recommend using it in the way you are describing because it is not Class 1 Fire Rated. If you are trying to create a sound blocking enclosure, I would recommend looking into creating one with sound barrier acoustical blankets. Check them out here: http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/68~sound-blanket-enclosures

    Aimee Sanford - Acoustical Solutions, Inc.

    15 Positive

  • I live in a row house - party walls are brick x2 and then plaster and lathe. what would you recommend over an existing plaster wall? i really do NOT want to remove the plaster and lathe- way too messy. But I can hear loud conversations and music through the walls. Thanks!

    Kim - homeowner

    16 Positive

  • Comment Img

    Hi Kim,

    There are a few things you can do to reduce noise transmission through the wall without taking your existing wall apart. The easiest method is to apply a damping compound like Quiet Glue Pro (http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/31~quietglue-pro) and another layer of drywall. For better results, you can even create a 'floating wall', meaning a new wall isolated from your existing one. You can do this with resilient isolation clips (http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/602~resiliant-isolation-clip) and two layers of new drywall with damping compound between them.

    Aimee Sanford - Acoustical Solutions, Inc.

    13 Positive

  • Reading the comments about AudioSeal I don't see anything about installing it on the outside of a house wall under the vinyl siding. It would be easier for us to remove the vinyl, attach the AudioSeal to the OSB, and reinstall the siding. Is that ok or does it need to be under the drywall.

    Tim Weinmann -

    19 Positive

  • Why can't wall paper be installed over mass loaded vinyl?

    Christina Acree -

    10 Positive

  • I am looking to use quietrock 545 soundproofing drywall in addition to applying green glue noiseproofing compound on the soundproofing drywall. Will that give me the STC rating of both products or just bump up the overall STC number?

    Christina Acree -

    14 Positive

  • Hi Tim,

    AudioSeal is installed inside a wall to the studs because it is kept relatively free-moving which helps it perform better. Please read this article by one of our technical sales reps that may help you out: http://www.acousticsblog.com/2012/mass-loaded-vinyl-and-the-correct-uses-for-it-or-how-i-learned-to-stop-worrying-and-install-things-the-right-way/

    Aimee Sanford - Acoustical Solutions, Inc.

    32 Positive

  • Hi Christina,

    AudioSeal is meant to be installed inside a wall to the studs because this is how it is most effective. Also, it is not class 1 fire rated and installing it so that it is exposed at all to the living area may present a fire hazard. And using acoustical drywall with damping compound will not give you the sum of the two STC ratings, but the damping compound will probably add an average of 2-3 points to the drywalls existing rating which is a noticeable improvement.

    Aimee Sanford - Acoustical Solutions, Inc.

    14 Positive

  • Comment Img

    I have a large home with vaulted ceilings and a metal roof. I am looking for a way to block the sound of rain from coming into the rooms but adding only minimal thickness. Would it work to add a layer of AudioSeal and then a sheet of drywall to the ceiling? I don't need perfect soundproofing, I just want to change DRIP, DRIP, DRIP into a soft pitter patter. Thanks, Jim

    Jim Granger -

    10 Positive

  • Comment Img

    Hi Jim,

    A great way to reduce the noise at the source is to add a damping compound meant to prevent vibration, and therefore structure borne noise) in metal. Our VBD-10 Damping Compound does exactly that. I can't tell from the photo, but if you have access to the underside of your roof, you may trowel, brush, or spray the compound directly to the metal. If this isn't an option, you can soundproof at the ceiling. AudioSeal Sound Barrier works best inside of walls and ceilings, so this isn't the best option for a finished ceiling. What you can do is apply a viscoelastic damping compound like Green Glue or QuietGlue Pro (http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/31~quietglue-pro) to a new layer of drywall and add that to your ceiling. It will reduce the transmission of airborne sound through your ceiling. Please feel free to call in with any additional questions: 800-782-5742

    Aimee Sanford - Acoustical Solutions, Inc.

    13 Positive

  • Hi,

    I am looking to soundproof a low basement ceiling to prevent sound coming out of the basement which will have a 2 ch listening room. (Wife is complaining about sound and bass) I can't sheetrock, ceiling too low and I am too tall. Can MLV be used to staple or glue between the rafters to the basement ceiling/underside of floor above? Would it help to wrap the floor joists as well? Or a combination of MLV with 2" of "egg shaped foam" or similar. Thanks

    Greg Sharp -

    29 Positive

  • Hi Greg,

    MLV installed between the basement ceiling and floor above is a great way to reduce sound transmission. You would staple it to the ceiling joists (studs)and finish the wall with a layer of drywall. Obviously, though, this requires opening up a finished ceiling. Isolation is the best way to reduce the transmission of bass frequencies, but it is difficult to do this without lowering the ceiling. Please call in with any additional questions - one of our knowledgeable sales reps would love to help you out! 800-782-5742

    Aimee Sanford - Acoustical Solutions, Inc.

    12 Positive

  • I live on a very busy street. I'm putting on new vinyl siding next summer, could I use "Audioseal Sound Barrier" under the siding to quiet the traffic noise comming into the house? Would you have a better product to use for this purpose?

    Mike Hackett -

    17 Positive

  • I am in the process of renovating a 100 year old two story building. What is the best product to use to attenuate sound migrating from the restaurant/kitchen below to the floor above which will be guest rooms?

    Chuck -

    2 Positive

  • Hi Mike,

    I've never heard of anyone installing MLV this way. You would need to attach the barrier to the studs of your surface and seal all cracks with acoustical caulk. The biggest concern is that when installing siding on top of the MLV you would be punching holes in the barrier every few inches which may reduce it's sound blocking ability.You may want to consider soundproofing from the inside. If you don't want to open up the interior finished walls, damping compound like QuietGlue Pro and additional drywall is always an option: http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/31~quietglue-pro

    Please feel free to call in with any additional questions! 800-782-5742

    Aimee Sanford - Acoustical Solutions, Inc.

    15 Positive

  • Hi Chuck, If you don't want to open up your ceiling and install AudioSeal Sound Barrier (which would work great) you can also add a damping compound like QuietGlue Pro (http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/31~quietglue-pro) and an additional layer of drywall to your ceiling. Another option is to create a 'floating ceiling' with resilient isolation clips: http://www.acousticalsolutions.com/602~resiliant-isolation-clip Please call in with any more questions, one of our knowledgeable sales reps would love to help you out! 800-782-5742

    Aimee Sanford - Acoustical Solutions, Inc.

    14 Positive

  • Would this product be OK to adhere to my outside vinyl fence? Weather proof? How to secure it? Thanks.

    Kenneth MacIntyre - Homeowner

    0 Positive

  • Hi Kenneth,

    Regarding your question on our AudioSeal Sound Barrier, it is not designed to be used exposed to the elements. A better solution for you would be our AudioSeal Exterior Grade Combination Blankets. You can see them used in a similar application to what you are describing here. Please feel free to call in with any additional questions. One of our knowledgeable sales reps can talk you through your noise issue and any possible solutions: 800 782 5742

    Aimee Sanford - Acoustical Solutions

    0 Positive

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